Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: Overview

Nanomaterials are natural or synthetic chemical substances with a particle size ranging from 1-100 nanometers (nm). Nanomaterials, known individually as nanoparticles, display very different properties and mechanics than larger particles of the same substance. In addition to its size, the structure of a nanoparticle significantly influences the way it interacts with other chemicals. There are several types of nanoparticle structures, including spirals, tubes, particles, and fibers.

The system used to measure nanomaterials is known as the nanoscale. In just a single millimeter, there are 1,000,000 nanometers. To put this measurement into perspective, a single human hair ranges from about 80,000 to 100,000 nm. Nanoparticles are only one step above the atomic level. They are so small and imperceptible that they can only be seen with a powerful tool, such as the electron microscope.

Nanomaterials are organized into four categories. Each material is classified based on their chemical function. These four classifications include:

• Carbon Nanomaterials: Carbon nanomaterials are varying microscopic structures composed of carbon atoms at the nanoscale. In cosmetics, for example, the carbon nanotubes, or more specifically the nanomaterial Fullerene, is commonly used in sunscreen as a UV filter.
• Organic Nanomaterials: Organic nanoparticles are carbon-based nanomaterials. These are sometimes referred to as polymeric nanoparticles and are biodegradable. Organic nanomaterials are often used in pharmaceuticals as an effective drug delivery or targeted drug delivery system to deliver medication within the body.
• Inorganic Nanomaterials: Inorganic nanoparticles are any nanomaterials produced without carbon-based compounds. Inorganic nanomaterials usually have much better chemical stability and are the most common classification of nanomaterials used in cosmetics.
• Hybrid Nanomaterials: Hybrid nanomaterials are nanoscale particles formed from organic and inorganic nanoparticles. These types of nanoparticles are also used primarily for drug delivery applications, with a unique advantage due to their biocompatibility and other mechanical factors.

Nanomaterials vary significantly in their characteristics and mechanics. Just an ever so slight change in the particle’s structure is enough to change its entire function. How a nanomaterial breaks down, also known as their biodegradability, is a very critical factor to be considered. Therefore, nanomaterials are divided into two categories based on their biodegradability.

The biodegradability of a nanoparticle is dependent on their solubility. Nanoparticles with a low solubility don’t break down as fast as nanoparticles with a high solubility. In cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, nanomaterials are often used as a delivery device for the product’s main drug or active ingredient. This unique characteristic allows drugs or active ingredients to be delivered to a target location and undergo a controlled release.

Biodegradable Nanomaterials

Biodegradable nanomaterials are soluble nanoparticles encased in a layer of natural and synthetic polymers that are both biodegradable and biocompatible. Biodegradable nanomaterials are advantageous for pharmaceutical use as a drug carrier. They are more chemically stable and will slowly release the drug they deliver as they degrade.

Non-Biodegradable Nanomaterials

Non-biodegradable nanomaterials are insoluble or low solubility nanoparticles. These particles are commonly used in cosmetics, such as sunscreens and anti-aging creams, as a UV protectant. These materials don’t degrade quickly and function by scattering UV rays. Nanomaterials such as carbon nanotubes or silica nanoparticles are forms of non-biodegradable nanoparticles.

There are several different types of nanoparticles used in cosmetics. Their application depends on their structure, biodegradability, and function. Nanoparticles are common in certain types of cosmetics, including:

• Sunscreen
• Lotion
• Deodorants
• Anti-aging cream

There are many different types of nanomaterials used in cosmetics. Here are some of their most common nanoparticle ingredients:

• Titanium Dioxide (nano) [TiO2]
• Zinc oxide (nano) [ZnO]
• Silicon Dioxide (nano) [SiO2]

Nanotechnology plays a key role in cosmetics, especially in certain skincare products like sunscreen, foundation, or anti-aging creams. Nanomaterials are often used as UV filters or skin protectants, due to their ability to scatter incoming UV rays. Nanoparticles in cosmetics are also particularly advantageous for the delivery of drugs or drug-like active ingredients.

There are several disadvantages of nanotechnology in cosmetics. Some of these are largely due to the limited information about their health and environmental risks. Currently, there is ongoing research and debate about the safety of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics and concerns about potential impact on human health and the environment. In some cases, nanoparticles in cosmetics may lead to certain dangers. A few of the known potential disadvantages of nanotechnology in cosmetics include:

• Inhalation of nanoparticles can, in certain cases, lead to oxidative stress and inflammation in the lungs, but the actual risk depends on factors like particle type, size, and exposure levels.
• Topical exposure to nanoparticles may lead to increased UV sensitivity.
• Negative environmental impact on wildlife and the ecosystem, especially natural bacteria found in aquatic environments.

Knowledge about the positive or negative effects of nanomaterials in cosmetics is still very limited. There is much debate over the use of nanotechnology in cosmetics, however, despite the uncertainty and divided opinions among the scientific community, the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics is becoming more common.

Regulations for the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics differ between the (US) Food and Drug Administration and the (EU) European Commission. Here is a brief overview of the current regulations.

FDA: In the US, the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics is continually monitored by the FDA. While cosmetic companies are required to adhere to cosmetic labeling guidelines and remain transparent with their consumers, they are not required to receive pre-market approval for any nanomaterial ingredients used in their formulations.

Currently, no nanomaterials have been banned in the US.

EU: Regulations for the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics are more rigorous in the EU than they are in the US. Cosmetic companies are required to submit a pre-market notification to register their cosmetics through the Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP) before entering the European market. The notification should include information such as the exact nanomaterial ingredients used in the product and the way in which a consumer could potentially be exposed to them. This regulation applies to all cosmetic manufacturers, importers, or third parties.

As of May 2024, EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 was updated with a list of additional nanomaterials banned for use in cosmetics sold within the EU. Currently, there are approximately 12 nanomaterials prohibited for use in cosmetics.

Cosmetic companies are required to include all nanomaterials used in their formulations on the ingredients list, just like any other substances. Most nanomaterials have names that look very similar to standard chemicals. Therefore, to ensure consumers can differentiate between standard chemicals and nanomaterials, the word “nano” must be included in brackets or parentheses.

An example of this is the nano form of titanium dioxide. This ingredient may be written in slightly different ways depending on the manufacturer. Here are two ways it could appear in the ingredients list: Titanium Dioxide (nano) or TITANIUM DIOXIDE [NANO].

At ADA Cosmetics, we prohibit the use of nanomaterials in any of our formulations. Our cosmetics are developed using carefully sourced natural and organic ingredients that are safe for consumer health and the environment.

We strive to ensure our products meet all regulatory guidelines as well as our own rigorous standards. Nanomaterials are just one of several ingredients on our banned list. As we place the health and safety of our consumers as our top priority, we avoid any ingredients with risks that outweigh their benefits. As a result, we offer numerous lines of natural, health and environmentally conscious cosmetic products to brighten the day and provide peace of mind.